Garlic and Sapphires by Ruth Reichl

This is the third memoir I have read by the famous food critic and editor of Gourmet magazine, Ruth Reichl.  I literally stumbled upon her first memoir " Tender at the Bone: Growing up at the Table" at our rental cabin in Medocino County last spring, almost exactly a year ago.  I devoured the book, no pun intended.  I relished upon her captivating anecdotes about her childhood and early adult years, interspersed with mouth-watering descriptions of the food that shaped her life.  Fresh from reading "Tender at the Bone", I began to read her second memoir "Comfort Me with Apples" and was completely let down.  This memoir lacked the charming appeal of her previous memoir and quite honestly bored me.So I cautiously did not set any expectations, prior to reading "Garlic and Sapphires" and fortunately the book more than delivered.

This memoir recounts the period in Ruth Reichl's illustrious epicurean career when she worked at the New York Times as their food critic.  Early on, she discovered that restaurants were on the look out for her arrival and quick to recognize her.  This resulted in preferential treatment such as being placed at the best table in the restaurant and literally being served larger, more luscious berries in her dessert when compared with regular patrons' meals.  In order to provide a more consumer-friendly, accurate review, Ruth embarks on a innovative method to conduct her restaurant reviews- dress in disguise. 

Not only does she alter her physical appearance but she takes on unique personality traits and invents distinct backgrounds for each of her characters.  This distinguishes her memoir from most traditional "foodie" books.  With each character, readers are drawn into different worlds and perspectives, which keeps the interest level high.  Characters include frumpy, retired high school teacher Molly, the controlling and outspoken Miriam, the alluring Chloe, the lovable and delightful Brenda, the meek and inconspicous Betty and  the rude, offensive Emily.  Ruth learns about herself while taking on the persona of these characters.  She gains a deeper understanding of her mother who most resembles Miriam and learns that Brenda represents her "best" self.

As in her early memoir "Tender at the Bone", "Garlic and Sapphires" contain mouth-watering food descriptions.  This time they are part of restaurant reviews, which aptly end each chapter.  Also included, as in her previous memoirs, are some of her favorite recipes.

Overall, "Garlic and Sapphires" is a fascinating read full of colorful characters, and vivid descriptions of restaurants' food and service. It provides  an insightful look into the world of a respected food critic in a very engaging manner.